Fountain Pen Ink Types Explained
What’s the Difference Between Different Types of Fountain Pen Ink?
(Dye vs. Pigment, Shimmer, Waterproof — Plus Important Cleaning Tips!)
The first thing most people learn about fountain pen ink is “DON’T PUT INDIA INK IN YOUR FOUNTAIN PENS!” So they buy some fountain pen ink and everything is wonderful. But not all Fountain pen inks are the same. While most people start with “regular” (dye-based) inks, there’s a huge world of specialty inks out there: shimmering, waterproof, pigment, iron gall, and more. Each has unique characteristics, benefits, and—most importantly—special care requirements to keep your pens happy and writing smoothly.
Whether you’re curious about experimenting or just want to know what not to put in your favorite pen, this post is for you. I’ve compiled all the practical knowledge that I’ve gathered over the past few years of obsessively surfing Reddit’s r/fountainpens, and compiled this short guide to fountain pen ink types, their pros and cons, and how to keep your pens safe.
1. Dye-Based Fountain Pen Inks (aka “Regular” Ink)
What Are They?
The vast majority of fountain pen inks are water-soluble dyes. Brands like Pilot, Diamine, Waterman, and J. Herbin make hundreds of colors in this category.
Pros:
Easy to clean out of pens
Play nicely with almost any modern fountain pen
Huge range of available colors and properties (sheening, shading, etc.)
Cons:
Not waterproof or fade-proof: will smudge if they get wet. Fade over time or if exposed to a lot of sunlight
Beginner Tip:
If you got one of our Bottle and Plume Fountain Pen Starter Kits or Fountain Pen Ink Sample Boxes, odds are you’re starting with mostly dye-based inks —no special precautions needed! All of our non-dye-based inks are labelled (“permanent,” “pigment,” etc.) so you know to give your pen a thorough cleaning after switching inks.
2. Pigment-Based Fountain Pen Inks
What Are They?
Instead of dissolving, pigment particles are suspended in water. Think of it as “liquid watercolor paint” for pens. Platinum Carbon Black and Sailor Kiwa-Guro are famous examples.
Pros:
Excellent water resistance and lightfastness (great for artists, document signing, and sketching)
Bold, saturated colors
Cons:
Can clog pens if left to dry inside (clean regularly!)
May not flow as smoothly as dye inks
Don’t let these dry in your pen—especially in fine or vintage nibs!
Cleaning & Care:
Clean your pen every 1–2 weeks if you’re using pigment ink.
Flush with cool water—if needed, use a pen flush.
Don’t leave pens inked for months unused!
Paper Performance:
Pigment inks behave well on most papers, but rough, absorbent, or low-quality paper can lead to feathering and reduced water resistance.
3. Shimmer Inks
What Are They?
Shimmer inks are regular dye-based fountain pen inks that have tiny particles of mica or metallic powder suspended in them. These particles create a sparkly, glittery effect in your writing—think gold, silver, copper, or rainbow sparkle.
Pros:
Visually stunning, fun for special letters, cards, or art
Wide range of colors and shimmer effects (see: J. Herbin’s Emerald of Chivor)
Most are otherwise similar to standard dye inks in flow and cleaning
Cons:
Shimmer can settle at the bottom of the bottle or converter—always shake before filling or writing! Some inks are particularly annoying and have to be shaken every minute or two while you’re writing. The particles don’t always stay suspended for long.
Particles can clog fine nibs, feeds, or pens with complex filling systems
Not ideal for vintage or expensive pens
Cleaning & Care:
Clean pens after each fill. Unlike pigment inks, shimmer particles don’t really “dry” because they’re just insoluble minerals. If you accidentally let a pen with shimmer ink dry out, just soak it in water overnight and then try flushing it normally.
Flush with cool water, and consider using a bulb syringe for the feed/nib
If shimmer builds up or starts blocking your feed, soak and flush the nib and feed for a thorough cleaning
Paper Performance:
Shimmer is most obvious on smooth, fountain pen-friendly paper. On absorbent or cheap paper, shimmer is often lost, and you may see feathering or even scratchiness as particles get caught in the paper fibers.
4. Sheen Inks
What Are They?
Sheen inks are dye-based inks that, due to their chemistry, dry with a shiny or metallic “sheen” in a contrasting color—think red ink that sheens gold, or blue ink that sheens purple, especially where ink pools or the line is saturated. Diamine Polar Glow might be the most stunning example of sheen that I’ve used.
Pros:
Create dramatic, color-shifting effects (popular examples: Organics Studio Walden Pond, Diamine Majestic Blue or the aforementioned Polar Glow)
Fun for calligraphy, show-off writing, or creative work, where appearance is a priority
Cons:
Sheen is heavily dependent on paper and nib choice—needs smooth, coated, fountain pen-friendly paper for full effect
High-sheen inks can sometimes be slow-drying and smudge-prone
Heavy sheeners may “gunk up” feeds or nibs if left to dry
Cleaning & Care:
Clean pens regularly (every fill or two) to prevent crusty buildup, especially in fine feeds or wet writers
Flush with cool water; pen flush helps if ink is stubborn
Don’t leave high-sheen inks in pens for long periods
Paper Performance:
Sheen is most pronounced on very smooth paper like Tomoe River, Cosmo Air Light, or Clairefontaine. On copy paper, the sheen usually disappears, and you may see more bleedthrough and feathering. If you want to show off sheen, upgrade your paper!
5. Waterproof & Permanent Inks
What Are They?
Inks labeled as waterproof, bulletproof, or permanent are made to resist water, light, and sometimes chemicals. This includes some pigment inks, but also unique formulas like Noodler’s Bulletproof or Diamine Forever Inks.
Pros:
Great for addressing envelopes, journaling, art, or anything you want to last for decades (or longer)
Won’t smudge if spilled on
Cons:
May be more stubborn to clean
Can stain pens if left for too long
Don’t let your pen dry out!
Cleaning & Care:
Clean pens every 1–2 weeks minimum
Use cool water and pen flush if needed
For tough stains, soak nib section overnight (never the whole pen if it has metal parts)
Paper Performance:
Permanent inks tend to bleed and feather more on cheap, absorbent paper. For best results, use better paper or experiment to find the right combo (finer nibs tend to do better with cheap paper).
6. Iron Gall, Registrar, and “Archival” Inks
What Are They?
Modern iron gall inks (like Diamine Registrar’s, Rohrer & Klingner Salix, Platinum Blue-Black) contain a small amount of iron gall, which darkens and binds to paper over time. Classic “registrar” inks are used for archival documents.
Pros:
Water-resistant once dry (great for signatures, journals, art)
Unique “vintage” color shifts (blue-to-black, purple-to-grey)
Cons:
Slightly acidic. To stay on the safe side, don’t use iron gall inks in fragile/vintage pens — although many vintage pens were made to handle harsher iron gall than we have today!
Will corrode metal parts if left for years—modern versions are safer but still require cleaning
Can dry out and clog pens if neglected
Cleaning & Care:
Clean your pen every 1–2 weeks at minimum
Flush with water—don’t let ink dry in the pen
Avoid long-term storage in pens with iron gall ink
Paper Performance:
Iron gall inks excel on good paper but can eat through cheap, acidic paper over time. On “junk” copy paper, expect more feathering and less water resistance.
General Do’s and Don’ts for All Specialty Inks
DO:
Clean pens regularly—especially if you use anything but regular dye-based ink
Test specialty inks in inexpensive pens first, or ones with easy-to-disassemble nibs/feeds
Use pen flush or a bit of ammonia solution (diluted!) for stubborn inks
Shake shimmer inks before filling
DON’T:
Let waterproof, pigment, shimmer, or iron gall ink dry in your pen!
Leave pens unused for months with these inks inside
Use specialty inks in rare, vintage, or irreplaceable pens
Mix different ink brands or types in the same pen
How Do These Inks Act on “Normal” (cheap) Paper?
Not everyone journals on Clairefontaine or Rhodia. Here’s what to expect on ordinary, cheaper paper:
Regular dye inks: May feather and bleed a bit, but usually manageable on decent copy paper.
Pigment & waterproof inks: More prone to bleed-through and feathering, especially in wet pens.
Shimmer inks: Particles may soak into the paper, reducing the sparkle and possibly making the writing scratchy.
Iron gall inks: Tend to feather on cheap paper and can discolor over time.
Tip: If you must use “bad” paper, go for fine or extra-fine nibs, and pick “drier” inks — J. Herbin, Pelikan 4001, Lamy, and others. Or, if you’re an unapologetic fountain pen nerd like me, carry a small pad of fountain pen-friendly paper for important notes. I personally love the Rhodia dot-grid notepad.
Beginner Recommendations
Start simple: Use regular, dye-based ink until you’re comfortable cleaning and maintaining your pen. Just rinse your pen by repeatedly filling and flushing it with tap water instead of ink, until the water comes out clear (some purists insist on distilled water but it’s not necessary for cheap, modern starter pens).
Try specialty inks in inexpensive, easy-to-clean pens first (think Platinum Preppy, Pilot Kakuno, etc.).
Keep a cleaning routine: Even with “safe” inks, your pen will thank you. Every 2-4 weeks or whenever you’re switching inks is more than enough. Some people go months or even years between full cleanings, if they’re using the same ink in a given pen.
Don’t disassemble or overclean your pens: you don’t need to disassemble your pen for cleaning 99% of the time; it just causes unnecessary wear and risks damage to your pen.
Want to experiment? Our Bottle and Plume Mystery Ink Sample Boxes always include a variety of ink types, so you can try before you commit to a whole bottle of something.
Happy inking—and remember, a well-used pen is a happy pen! If you ever have questions about what’s safe for your pen, or need tips on cleaning, drop us a message or check our upcoming video guides (YouTube channel coming soon!).