FAQ: Everything you ever wanted to know about fountain pens
On this page, I’ve collected the most frequently asked questions about fountain pens: using fountain pens, selecting and buying them, flying on airplanes with fountain pens, cleaning them, how to fill fountain pens with ink, how to fix common issues, and so much more.
I’ll keep updating this as more questions come in, and as I discover more information that I think will be useful for beginners.
What is a fountain pen and why use one?
A fountain pen is a writing instrument that writes using liquid ink fed through a nib (the metal tip) from an internal reservoir or cartridge. Unlike ballpoint pens which use thick oil-based ink, fountain pens deliver water-based ink smoothly via gravity and capillary action. This gives a smoother, more enjoyable writing experience than the pressure-based ballpoint, often improving comfort and even handwriting. If you've never used a fountain pen before, you may really be surprised how it takes virtually NO pressure to write -- just the weight of the pen on paper is enough to make it write.
Fountain pens also allow personalization – instead of being stuck with the exact same pen that everyone else with a BIC or Pilot G2 experiences, you can choose from many colors and materials:
- ink colors and properties like sheen, shimmer, waterproofness, etc.
- pen materials and color (many pens are unique in terms of their specific color/pattern, even at lower price points).
- Nib material and size, which affects how the pen feels when you write and how thick your line is.
Fountain pens are also refillable, which makes them much more eco-friendly compared to disposable pens. In short, a fountain pen offers a classic, refined feeling and a completely different, effortless and fluid writing experience that many people find both practical and fun.
What are some good beginner fountain pens?
There are several excellent, affordable fountain pens for beginners that offer great performance. Popular starter models include:
Lamy Safari
TWSBI Eco
Kaweco Sport
Jinhao x159
which consistently appear on “best beginner pen” lists. These pens are praised for their reliable nibs and durable build, all at a reasonable price point. For example, the Pilot Metropolitan is often singled out as a top choice – it provides a fine writing experience and balance of quality and cost, making it “the best beginner fountain pen” in one comparative review.
Most of these pens cost around $5 to $30, so you don’t need to spend a lot to get a good fountain pen. They usually come with either a starter ink cartridge or converter, and have user-friendly designs (easy to fill, not prone to leaks). As a beginner, you can’t go wrong with any of the models above – they are widely recommended in the fountain pen community for learning the ropes without frustration. Once you gain experience, you’ll have a better idea if you want to explore fancier pens, but these will serve you well to start.
Which nib size should I get for my first fountain pen, as a beginner? (Fine vs. Medium vs. Broad)
For most beginners, a Fine (F) nib is a safe choice, especially if you’ll be writing on ordinary paper. Fine nibs create a thinner line (similar to a typical ballpoint pen’s line) which makes the transition easy and helps on lower-quality paper by reducing bleed-through. A fine is great for small handwriting or detailed notes, and because it puts down less ink, it dries faster and is less likely to feather on average paper.
A Medium (M) nib is also a popular “default” for beginners. Mediums write a bit broader and wetter, which can be more fun if you have good paper – you’ll see more ink color and shading. They tend to feel very smooth to write with. If your handwriting is mid-sized and you use decent paper, a medium can be enjoyable.
Broader nibs (B, etc.) produce thick lines and show off ink nicely, but they lay down a lot of ink. A broad nib on cheap paper might bleed or smear, so they’re often recommended later when you have fountain pen friendly paper and want to experiment with calligraphy or expressive writing. As a beginner, you might “graduate” to a broad once you’re comfortable.
In summary: Fine or Medium nibs are generally best to start. If you have very small handwriting or will use regular notebooks at work/school, go with Fine for precision and minimal bleed. If you prefer a smoother feel and have decent paper, Medium will be enjoyable. (Luckily, many pens allow swapping nibs, so this choice isn’t forever – but Fine is the conservative starting point most users recommend)
How do I fill a fountain pen with ink?
Filling a fountain pen depends on the type of pen, but there are three common methods:
Cartridge
Easiest for beginners. A cartridge is a small pre-filled ink tube. To fill, simply insert a new ink cartridge into the pen’s section (grip unit) – push firmly until you feel it puncture. The ink will start flowing to the nib (it may take a minute). That’s it – no mess. Cartridges are plug-and-play with no manual ink handling.
Converter
Most starter pens also accept a converter, which is a refillable reservoir. To fill via converter, attach the empty converter to the pen (in place of a cartridge), dip the nib into a bottle of fountain pen ink, and operate the converter (usually by twisting or pressing) to suck ink up through the nib into the converter. This is like using a syringe – the converter draws ink into the pen.
Once filled, wipe off the nib and you’re ready. This opens up a world of bottled ink colors to use.
Piston/Vacuum/Eyedropper
These are less common on beginner pens but worth mentioning. Piston-fillers have a built-in mechanism: twist the piston knob to create suction and draw ink directly into the barrel from a bottle. Vacuum-fillers use a plunger system similarly. Eyedropper fill means the entire barrel is the ink reservoir – you manually fill the barrel with an eyedropper or syringe. These methods hold lots of ink but are usually found in specific pen models or require modifications, so as a beginner you’ll likely stick to cartridges or a converter.
Always follow your pen manufacturer’s instructions for filling, but the above covers the basics. The key is ensuring you use fountain pen ink and fill carefully to avoid spills. After filling (especially from a bottle), keep some paper towel handy to blot any excess ink from the nib. With a bit of practice, filling becomes quick and routine. Many find the process fun – it’s part of the fountain pen experience!
(One more tip: when using a converter or piston, submerge the nib fully in ink up to the section when filling. This ensures you’re drawing ink, not air. If the pen doesn’t write immediately after filling, give a gentle few flicks or scribbles to encourage ink through the feed.)
Should I clean a new fountain pen before using it for the first time?
It’s recommended to flush a brand-new fountain pen before you ink it up the first time. New pens sometimes have manufacturing oils or tiny debris in the feed/nib from production. A quick cleaning ensures these residues won’t impede ink flow. Even if the pen is “brand new out of the box,” a gentle rinse can prevent scratchy or inconsistent writing caused by any leftover oils.
This whole process only takes a few minutes (see the next question) and can save you from a pen that skips or won’t start due to oily residue left over from manufacturing (or ink residue left behind by the previous owner). It’s a good habit for each new pen.
If you happen to ink a new pen without cleaning and it writes well, no harm done. But if you notice any flow issues initially, try a quick flush – it often resolves the problem immediately.
How to clean a fountain pen? (Related question: how often should I clean a fountain pen that’s seeing normal use?
Regular cleaning is an important part of fountain pen maintenance. The good news is it’s simple to do and keeps your pen writing its best. Here’s how to clean a typical cartridge/converter fountain pen:
1. Flush with water: Remove the ink source (cartridge or converter). Expel any remaining ink. Then flush the pen with cool water. Easiest method: fill a cup with water, attach a converter (or use a syringe/bulb) and draw water in through the nib, then expel it – repeating until the water runs clear. Essentially you’re rinsing out the feed and nib of all ink. If your pen was very clogged or you’re changing from a dark ink to a lighter one, you may use a diluted dish soap solution or pen flush for a more thorough clean, but plain water usually suffices.
2. Soak if needed: If dried ink is stubborn, let the nib/feed soak in water for a few hours (or overnight). Adding a drop of ammonia or pen cleaning solution to the water can help with severe clogs (though not usually necessary for routine cleaning).
IN EMERGENCIES ONLY: Disassemble: For an incredibly thorough cleaning, you can remove the nib and feed on some pens (if the pen’s design allows it) and rinse them separately. This step is USUALLY NOT NECESSARY – most of the time you’re going to cause more problems by doing this than you’re going to solve.
3. Drying: After cleaning, gently dry the nib and feed with a soft cloth or paper towel. It’s okay if they remain slightly damp – just avoid immediate contact with ink if lots of water is still present, as it can dilute your ink. Let the pen air dry a bit.
Once clean and dry, reassemble the pen, pop in a fresh ink, and you’re good to go.
How often should you clean your fountain pen? As a general rule, you don’t need to be obsessive about cleaning your pens. Many users do a basic flush every 4-6 weeks, or whenever they change ink colors. If you write daily with the same ink, a monthly cleaning keeps the feed from accumulating dried ink. You should also clean a pen if it starts writing poorly (skipping or scratchy) – often a good rinse will fix flow issues. And definitely clean a pen if you plan to store it unused for a while; don’t leave ink to dry out in the feed and nib.
If you’re using more difficult inks — shimmer or pigment — it can be useful to clean a bit more frequently. I’ve got a pen that I always keep inked with a waterproof, lightproof pigment fountain pen ink. That ink (Platinum Carbon Black) can be pretty goopy, so I’ll rinse my pen every 3 weeks, before filling up again. I haven’t had any problems yet.
Regular cleaning might sound like a chore, but it’s quick (just water in, water out) and prevents most common pen issues. A clean pen is a happy pen, and it will reward you with smooth writing!
Why is my fountain pen not writing or skipping strokes, and how can I fix it?
It can be frustrating when a fountain pen refuses to write (known as a “hard start”) or writes intermittently (skipping). Here are common causes and fixes:
Ink is low or pen is dry: First, check if you have ink! If the cartridge/converter is empty or nearly so, the pen will skip. Refill or replace the cartridge. If ink is in there but the pen sat unused for days, the ink in the nib may have dried. Solution: Prime the pen by twisting the converter or squeezing the cartridge (carefully) to push a drop of ink into the feed. Scribble on scrap paper to get ink flowing. In many cases, simply cleaning the pen resolves drying or clog issues – dried ink can clog the feed and cause skips.
Clogged feed or nib: If a pen hasn’t been cleaned in a long time (or ever), dried ink or paper fibers can clog the channels. The ink can’t flow consistently, leading to skips. Solution: Give the pen a good flush (see cleaning above). Often, flushing with water or a pen flush will restore smooth flow. For stubborn clogs, let the nib/feed soak in water.
Paper or angle issues: Sometimes skipping isn’t the pen’s fault – glossy or coated paper can prevent ink from flowing, or writing at an odd angle might mean the nib isn’t contacting the paper properly. Solution: Test the pen on different paper. Also ensure you’re holding the pen such that the nib’s slit faces up and both tines touch the paper. Very high or low angles can cause intermittent contact.
Nib or feed misalignment: On rare occasions, the nib and feed might be misaligned or the tines slightly apart (causing “baby’s bottom” or poor capillary action). This is more advanced, but signs include: the pen writes after you apply pressure or on certain strokes but not others. Solution: After trying the basics above, if skipping persists, you might need to have the nib tuned by a professional or nibmeister. However, as a beginner, try cleaning and different inks first.
In summary, start with a thorough cleaning whenever you face skipping or no-start issues. Most often, ink flow problems come down to dried ink or clogging. Also, make sure the pen is filled and capped when not in use (to prevent drying). If problems continue, try a different ink (some inks flow wetter than others) or check the nib under magnification to see if the tines are aligned. With a bit of troubleshooting, you’ll usually get your pen writing consistently again.
Why does my fountain pen feel scratchy when writing?
A fountain pen should generally write smoothly or with only slight “feedback” (a bit of pencil-like feel on paper). If your pen feels scratchy – like it’s digging into the paper or catching – that signals an issue. Common reasons and remedies include:
Misaligned nib tines: This is the number one cause of scratchiness. If one of the nib’s two tines is slightly higher than the other, the lower tine’s edge will drag on paper, causing a scratchy sensation. You might notice the pen is scratchy in one direction (say, left-to-right) but smoother in another – that’s a classic symptom. Solution: Realign the tines. Often this can be done gently by hand: using a loupe or magnifying glass, check alignment. If misaligned, you can very gently push the higher tine down or the lower tine up (there are tutorials on this). If you’re not comfortable adjusting it yourself, a nib technician can do it. For a beginner, if the pen is new and scratchy, consider contacting the seller – nib misalignment on arrival is a defect they might fix or replace.
Nib has a rough tip (needs smoothing): Sometimes the tip (called the iridium tipping) might have a slight rough spot or manufacturing burr. A properly tuned nib “should not leave marks on the paper” or snag fibers. If yours does, it might need smoothing. Solution: You can try writing some figure-eights on a brown paper bag or fine micro-mesh to gently polish the nib tip. Go very lightly and check frequently – the goal is just to remove any tiny burrs. If unsure, again a professional can smooth it in seconds.
Using too much pressure: Unlike ballpoints, fountain pens require very little pressure. If you press hard, the nib will feel scratchy and could even be damaged (tines spread). Heavy pressure can also dig into paper fibers, exaggerating scratchiness. Solution: Use a light touch – let the pen glide. The ink should flow without you forcing it. Many new users find that once they lighten their hand, the “scratchiness” disappears and the pen feels much smoother.
Paper quality: Rough, fibrous paper will make any pen feel scratchier. If you’re writing on low-grade paper (like cheap copier paper), the nib might catch on loose fibers. Solution: Try a smoother paper. Fountain pen friendly paper (like Rhodia or Clairefontaine) has a smoother coating, which can make the nib slide more easily.
If your pen still scratches after cleaning, checking alignment, and adjusting pressure, don’t despair. Many fountain pen nibs – even on inexpensive pens – can be made smooth. A quick alignment or smoothing (either DIY with care or by a nib expert) can transform a scratchy nib into a pleasure. Once fixed, a properly adjusted nib should glide without catching – you’ll feel just the gentle feedback of the pen on the page, not an irritating scratch.
Are fountain pens messy or prone to leaking?
One of the biggest myths about fountain pens is that they are ink-leaking mess machines. In reality, a well-maintained fountain pen “does not leak” under normal use. If you have ink spurting everywhere, something is wrong (dried ink clog, damaged seal, etc.). That said, fountain pens use liquid ink, so they require a bit more care than ballpoints to avoid mess:
Everyday use: A properly functioning fountain pen will not leave ink on your hands or paper aside from what comes out through writing. You might occasionally see a little ink on the nib (called “nib creep” – a small ink film on the nib slit – which is normal and not a leak).
But you should not get big blots or drips. If you do, check that the nib unit is screwed firmly into the section, that the converter or cartridge is seated correctly, and that there are no cracks in the pen. Usually, any leak indicates a fixable issue (like a damaged seal or O-ring that needs replacement). Under normal conditions, fountain pens are designed to be secure and not spontaneously leak.
Carrying and storing: To be safe, store your pen upright (nib up) or horizontal when not in use, especially if jostling around. Storing nib-down can increase the chance of ink seeping out into the cap over time. Many people carry fountain pens in a shirt pocket (nib up) or in a case with no issues. Always cap the pen when not writing, to prevent accidental marks and slow down drying.
Ink on fingers: It’s true that you may occasionally get inky fingers, particularly when refilling from a bottle or cleaning the pen. This is usually minor – a bit of ink on your fingertip or on a tissue. It washes off with soap and water. Using cartridges avoids even this; they’re as clean as a regular pen refill. So day-to-day, you shouldn’t be getting ink all over yourself. Think of it this way: millions of people used fountain pens daily in the past without ruining their clothes – it just takes a little attentiveness (like not tossing a uncapped pen in a bag).
In summary, a fountain pen is not inherently messy. If yours is making a mess, treat it as a troubleshooting problem (just like a ballpoint that might blob ink if broken). Often a leak means a part needs fixing or the pen needs cleaning. As one source puts it: “Fountain pens do not leak. A leaky pen is a broken pen and needs to be fixed.”
Ensure everything is in good shape and you can confidently use fountain pens at your desk or on the go without ink disasters.
(However, see the next question about airplanes – a special case where leaks can happen if you’re not careful due to air pressure.)
Can I bring a fountain pen on an airplane (will it leak during flights)?
You can absolutely fly with fountain pens, but you need to take a couple of precautions to avoid leaks due to air pressure changes. The issue on planes is that as altitude changes, the air in your pen’s ink reservoir can expand and push ink out (this is called “burping”). Here’s how to fly leak-free:
Travel with pens either full or empty: A golden rule is “Empty pens never leak” and fully filled pens rarely do. If you have no air space in the pen (completely full of ink) or no ink at all, there’s no air to expand and force ink out. It’s partially filled pens that are most prone to leaking. So before your flight, either fill your pen to the top or flush it out empty.
Keep the pen nib-up during takeoff and landing: Pointing the nib upward (cap on) allows any pressure-expanded air to escape into the back of the pen rather than pushing ink out the nib. Many travelers just stick their pens in a pocket with the nib up. The biggest pressure changes are during ascent and descent; once at cruising altitude, you can usually use the pen normally. But as a safe practice, I keep the pen capped except when writing, and still generally nib-up when not writing.
Use a ziplock bag: Some people put their pens in a plastic bag in their carry-on. This way, if a leak does occur, the mess is contained. Honestly, if you follow the first two tips, you likely won’t need this. But it’s a zero-effort insurance policy. As one traveler quipped, “keep them empty or full, and just in case, in a ziplock bag.”
Don’t use the pen during steep ascent/descent: Avoid writing exactly during takeoff or landing, when pressure is rapidly changing. At cruising altitude and cabin pressure is stable, fountain pens generally behave. If you’re unsure, do a quick test scribble in a notebook after leveling off to ensure no blobs come out, before writing on important documents.
Thousands of fountain pen users fly regularly with their pens. By following the above, we rarely have issues.
In summary: fill ‘er up or empty ‘er out, cap on, nib skyward. I’ve accidentally flown with multiple inked pens stored in a non-ink-proof case and had no leaks. With these precautions, you can enjoy your fountain pen at 30,000 feet just as much as on the ground.
(If a pen does blorp a bit after a flight, don’t panic – just clean the cap and pen. It’s usually a one-time pressure burp. Once equalized, it shouldn’t continue leaking.)
What kind of paper should I use with a fountain pen?
Fountain pens can write on most papers, but the quality of the paper makes a big difference in the writing experience. Standard cheap paper (like thin copier or notebook paper) often isn’t ideal because fountain pen ink can bleed through or feather on it. In a beginner’s words, using a fountain pen on the wrong paper can turn your writing into “an amorphous blob” with ink soaking through the page. The solution is to use fountain pen friendly paper, which has properties that handle liquid ink better.
What to look for in paper:
Heavier weight & coating (“sizing”): Papers around 80–100 gsm (grams per square meter) tend to be better for fountain pens than very thin 60gsm copier paper. Good fountain pen paper often has a smooth, sized surface (in the paper world, sizing is a coating or treatment that prevents quick absorption of ink). Because the ink sits on the surface a bit longer, you get crisp lines with no feathering, and it won’t bleed through. For example, the famous Tomoe River paper is thin but heavily sized to resist bleed – ink “sits” on it, yielding beautiful crisp lines. The trade-off is that heavily coated papers will have longer dry times.
Smooth texture: A smooth paper will feel nicer to write on (the nib glides) and also is less likely to catch fibers that cause feathering. Brands like Clairefontaine and Rhodia are known for their super smooth, fountain-pen-optimized paper. Your pen will feel smoother and you’ll see less of the “fuzzy” lines you might get on rough paper.
Lower absorbency: You want paper that doesn’t suck the ink in quickly. Absorbent paper (like tissue or cheap pulp paper) will cause ink to spread (feather) and bleed through. Fountain pen friendly paper is designed to be less absorbent on the surface. For example, Rhodia pads use coated 90gsm paper that is very resistant to bleed and show-through, yet dries in a reasonable time.
Recommended paper/brands: Commonly praised fountain-pen-friendly papers include Tomoe River, Rhodia, Clairefontaine, Apica, Profolio Oasis, Midori, Maruman Mnemosyne, Leuchtturm1917, among others. In the US, Rhodia pads or Clairefontaine notebooks are easy to find and excellent for beginners. Leuchtturm1917 journals are also quite good and popular for planners/journals. Even certain printer papers work well – a heavyweight laser printer paper (like HP 32lb Premium) is relatively cheap and handles fountain pen ink without bleed (a handy tip: laser paper is designed to be smooth and ink-resistant).
If you’re in school or the office and must use standard copy paper, you can still use your pen, but stick to a Fine nib and drier inks to minimize issues. And put a sheet of scrap paper under the page you’re writing on to protect the next page from any bleed-through.
In summary, while fountain pens can write on ordinary paper, you’ll have the best results on higher-quality paper that’s made for ink. The difference is huge – on good paper, your lines will be sharp with no feathering, and you can even appreciate shading and sheen of inks. If you found fountain pens messy at first, there’s a good chance the paper was at fault. Switch to a fountain-pen-friendly notebook and prepare to be delighted by how much better your writing looks and feels!
What ink should I use in my fountain pen? Can I use any ink?
You should only use ink made for fountain pens. This is crucial. Fountain pen inks are dye-based (mostly water with dyes and some additives) and formulated to flow through the fine feed channels without clogging. Do NOT use India ink, calligraphy dip pen ink, or other drawing inks in a fountain pen. Those contain shellac, pigments, or other particles that will clog or damage a fountain pen’s feed/nib. As one guide puts it: “Don’t get any India ink, calligraphy ink, or pigmented inks, since the pigment will clog up your pen.”
These inks are meant for dip pens or art brushes, not the delicate internals of a fountain pen.
Luckily, there’s a huge variety of safe fountain pen inks available. Any ink from major brands like Pilot, Lamy, Parker, Waterman, Pelikan, Diamine, Noodler’s, Montblanc, etc. is formulated for fountain pen use. You can choose bottled ink or cartridges from these makers. A beginner-friendly approach is to pick up a bottle of a well-behaved ink such as Waterman Serenity Blue or Pilot Blue-Black – these inks are known for being easy on pens (easy to clean, low clogging, good flow). If you prefer cartridges, use the ones from the pen’s manufacturer or compatible brands (again, these are fountain pen inks in pre-filled form).
So, the rule is: if the ink says “for fountain pens,” you’re good; if not, don’t use it. For example, some newbies wonder about using printer ink or tattoo ink – the answer is no! Stick to inks specifically sold for fountain pens. Fountain pen inks come in every color of the rainbow and various properties (fast-drying, waterproof, shading, shimmering, etc.), so you have plenty of choice without resorting to unsuitable inks.
One more tip: Avoid mixing different brands or types of ink in the pen unless you know they’re chemically compatible. Some inks, when mixed, can precipitate solids. It’s fine to switch inks – just clean the pen between changes. But don’t, say, top off Parker Quink with some India ink or even mix two random fountain pen inks in the pen. Save mixing experiments for an external vial.
In summary, using the correct ink is vital for your pen’s health. Fountain pens are not as forgiving as a ballpoint in accepting any fluid – but with the right ink, they will write beautifully. When in doubt, check the ink bottle or cartridge packaging: it should clearly indicate it’s for fountain pens. If you stick to that, you’ll avoid 99% of ink-related problems.
Which is better for beginners: ink cartridges or bottled ink (converter)?
Both cartridges and bottled ink have their pros and cons, and neither is “wrong” – it depends on what you value:
Ink Cartridges: These are pre-filled ink tubes you plug into your pen. For a beginner, cartridges are super convenient: plug-and-play with little to no mess. If you want ease, cartridges are great – when one runs dry, you pop in another in seconds. They also make it easy to carry spares (no need to lug an ink bottle — or in my case, 7 ink sample vials — around).
The downsides: limited ink colors (each brand has a selection, but far fewer than the universe of bottled inks) and much higher cost per milliliter of ink. Also, cartridges create plastic waste, and you must use the right cartridge type for your pen (many brands use proprietary cartridges). In short, cartridges = simplicity and cleanliness, with fewer choices of ink.
Bottled Ink (using a converter or built-in filler): Bottled inks unlock the enormous variety of colors and brands out there. You’ll find hundreds of colors, special properties (sheen, shimmer), and often more economical pricing – bottled ink gives you more ink for your money than cartridges. Using a converter, you can fill from any bottle and even mix inks if you’re adventurous. The experience of filling can be enjoyable too, as part of the hobby.
Downsides: filling can be a bit messy if you’re not careful. You need to be in a stable place (probably not in the middle of a lecture or meeting) to refill. Also, glass ink bottles aren’t as portable – not ideal to carry in a bag daily (though you can carry samples or small vials).
For a beginner, you might start with the cartridge that comes with your pen just to get going. Then, if you’re curious about other ink colors, consider getting a converter and a bottle of ink. Many beginners quickly move to converters because they want to try fun ink colors beyond the basic blue/black cartridges. It’s not hard – maybe a bit intimidating at first, but after a couple fills you’ll find it straightforward.
Some users stick with cartridges for convenience, especially for pens they take on the go. Others love bottled inks and never use cartridges. You can also refill empty cartridges with bottled ink using a syringe as a best-of-both-worlds hack (this avoids waste and gives convenience; just ensure you clean them and only use fountain pen inks).
In summary: Cartridges are best for ease and cleanliness – ideal if you don’t want any fuss. Bottled ink (with a converter) is best for variety and long-term economy (and it’s the classic fountain pen experience). There’s no harm in trying both. As one guide sums up: cartridges are quick and mess-free, but offer limited colors and can be pricier per fill, while bottled inks give you maximum choice and value if you don’t mind a bit of filling ritual.
Do I need an expensive fountain pen to start? Why are some pens so expensive?
You do NOT need an expensive pen to enjoy fountain pens. There are plenty of fantastic inexpensive pens (under $20) that write wonderfully – we mentioned several in the beginner pen question. So why do some fountain pens cost $100, $500, or even more? The price of a fountain pen can vary wildly based on several factors:
Materials: High-end pens might be made of precious materials – for example, solid gold or silver trim, celluloid or hand-turned acrylic bodies, even encrusted jewels. These naturally raise the price. Cheaper pens use plastics or steel, which are perfectly functional but less “luxurious.”
Nib material: Gold nibs (14k, 18k gold) cost more than steel nibs. Gold offers a certain feel – often softer or with springiness – but steel nibs can be excellent too (many beginners actually prefer a well-tuned steel nib for firmness). Gold drives up cost disproportionately (the nib is a small piece, but gold pricing is high). However, a gold nib doesn’t automatically write better – it’s a bit smoother/flexier often, but many steel nib pens write just as well for a fraction of the price.
Brand and craftsmanship: You pay more for pens that have a lot of craftsmanship. For instance, Japanese Urushi lacquer pens are expensive because of the labor and skill involved in the finish. A Montblanc or Pelikan might be pricy due to brand heritage, warranty service, and build quality. Limited editions or boutique brands also charge more for exclusivity or artistic design. In contrast, mass-produced beginner pens keep costs low with simpler production.
Filling mechanism complexity: Pens with built-in piston or vacuum fillers may cost more than simple cartridge/converter pens because the mechanism is more complex to manufacture. That said, there are affordable pistons (e.g., TWSBI Eco ~$30) that work great.
Expensive pens can be like luxury watches – part functional tool, part jewelry or collector’s item. But from a writing standpoint, you don’t need an expensive pen. A $15 pen can write just as nicely (or sometimes better) than a $200 pen. Often, the smoothness of the nib and reliability of ink flow have little to do with price. Many affordable pens are superb writers out of the box.
If you’re starting out, it’s wise to begin with inexpensive pens. You won’t be afraid to actually use them everywhere, and you can learn what you like. Over time, if you develop a passion, you might choose to invest in a higher-end pen for the aesthetics or the nib feel. But rest assured, great writing performance is available at beginner prices. Fountain pens span a range from a few dollars to thousands, but price often reflects luxury and materials rather than writing quality alone.
In short: Some pens are expensive due to fancy materials, design, or limited production, but you can get a wonderful writing experience without spending a lot. Try a budget-friendly pen first – you might be amazed how well it writes. As you refill it over and over (fountain pens are durable), you’ll also save money compared to repeatedly buying disposable pens. So expensive pens are a choice, not a necessity, in this hobby.
How should I store my fountain pen when I’m not using it?
Proper storage will keep your fountain pen in good shape and prevent dry-outs or leaks. Here are some guidelines:
Short-term (daily) storage
When you set the pen down, it’s best to store it horizontally or nib-up in a pen cup/holder. Storing nib down is not recommended because gravity can cause ink to accumulate at the nib and potentially leak into the cap or onto whatever it’s on. Nib-up (vertically) is very safe against leaks, but if left that way for a long time, the ink can drain away from the feed and the pen might dry out a bit, causing a hard start next use. Horizontal (flat) is a good compromise: ink stays around the nib enough to start easily, but not pooled at the tip. In practice, many people clip pens nib-up in a shirt pocket or keep them flat in a drawer – both work fine.
Long-term storage (weeks or more)
If you won’t use the pen for an extended period, it’s best to empty and clean it before storage. Flush out the ink and store the pen dry. This prevents any remaining ink from drying inside and clogging it. Store the pen with the cap on, in a cool, dry place. Avoid direct sunlight, which over time can fade pen materials and ink, and avoid extreme heat or cold.
Environment
Keep pens away from heat and sunlight – heat can cause ink to expand or even evaporate, and sunlight can dry out ink or discolor certain plastics. Also avoid very humid places as moisture could potentially promote mold in the ink (rare, but can happen if a pen is inked and left in a damp spot). A normal room environment is fine.
Vintage pens may be made of materials that come with their own environmental warnings — storing vintage celluloid or ebonite (vulcanized rubber) pens without damaging the material may require even more careful control of variables like temperature, humidity, and airflow. For example, some vintage pens may have components like rubber sacs that offgas, which can affect the body’s material if there isn’t enough airflow. Another real-life example I recently heard about: tanning chemicals from leather storage cases may affect certain vintage materials, damaging or ruining beautiful pen bodies that have survived 100 years.
I may hire an expert to write a more detailed article about this, but for now check with a vintage pen expert/enthusiast at a pen show, on the Fountain Pen Network forum, or on Reddit.
Containers
If you have multiple pens, a pen case or holder is a great idea to protect them from jostling or dropping. Laying pens in a drawer on a soft cloth, or using a pen wrap, also works. The goal is to avoid them rolling off a desk (which can damage the nib) and to keep dust out of the cap. Some people use display stands – just ensure if vertical, it’s nib-up; if a pen is displayed nib-down, gravity might cause ink to leak into the cap over time.
During transport
Use a pen sleeve or case when carrying in bags, so the pen doesn’t get scratched or compressed. Keep it upright if possible. If flying, refer to the airplane tips above (basically either keep your fountain pen’s ink reservoir empty or full, nib up; close the shutoff valve for takeoff, climb, and descent if your pen has one). During your normal daily commute, treat a fountain pen like you would a nice pair of glasses: give it a little protection and it’ll be fine.
TL;DR: Storage
So, ideal storage: cool, dry place, pen capped, and either horizontal or nib-up orientation. For example, overnight you might stand the pen upright in a cup with the nib upwards (or clip it in a shirt pocket), or just lay it on a desk. Either way, it should start writing the next day without trouble. If it does hard-start, a quick shake or scribble primes it again – storing horizontal often avoids even that.
Once you know how to store your fountain pens properly, you’ll also prevent leaks. For example, fountain pens kept with “tip upright” are much less likely to leak during storage. And if you ever do see ink inside the cap, it’s a sign to perhaps store that pen differently (or that it’s overfull or needs a check, or got jolted a bit, or a million other things).
Can left-handed people use fountain pens?
Yes, left-handed people can absolutely use fountain pens! The idea that lefties can’t use them is a myth. However, left-handed writers do face a couple of specific challenges, mainly related to smudging and angle, but these can be overcome with a few tips:
Smudging the ink
Because most left-handers write moving their hand left-to-right behind the text, there’s a risk of the side of your hand going over the still-drying ink. This can cause smearing, because many of your favorite non-fast-drying fountain pen inks will take 30-40 seconds to dry to a reasonable level. To combat this, many lefties adjust their writing technique or tools:
Hand position: Some lefties use an “underwriting” position, where the hand is below the writing line (so it doesn’t drag across the fresh ink). If you naturally write this way, great – smudging will be minimal.
Fast-drying inks: If you’re an “overwriter” (hand curls above the line) or write with a straight wrist that does pass over the line, consider using fast-drying inks. There are inks specifically noted for quick dry time (for example, Sailor Sei-boku Nano blue-black, which is known to dry very fast). Faster drying ink means less smudge.
Fine nibs: Using a finer nib can help – a fine nib puts down less ink, so it dries quicker. Many lefties start with a Fine nib for this reason. A broad, very wet nib might stay wet too long for a lefty who drags their hand over it.
Good paper can also assist; more absorbent papers dry ink faster than the ultra-smooth ones. You might sacrifice a bit of smoothness for quicker absorption if smearing is a big issue.
Stiff Nibs: The more rigid a nib, the more tolerant it likely is of being “pushed” — it’ll have an easier time writing in all directions without the tines opening up and starting to scratch.
Let’s dive into the reasons for these recommendations.
Pushing vs. pulling the nib
Right-handers naturally pull the fountain pen nib across the paper (left-to-right for most writing). Lefties, especially those who write with a “hook” hand position, are often pushing the nib across the page. Fountain pens can write when pushed, but very flexible nibs or italic nibs that require a certain angle might be trickier for lefties.
The good news: most modern pens have fairly rigid, rounded nibs that write in all directions. So a typical lefty should have no problem. Extremely flexible nibs can skip if pushed (they’re meant to spread on pull strokes), but those pens are not aimed at beginners, so you wouldn’t be looking at these right away anyway.. Some brands even offer special left-handed nibs, which are usually just medium-fine nibs ground to be a bit more tolerant of push writing. But you likely don’t need one – a standard round nib works for lefties in most cases.
One upside of this is that many of the Chinese pens currently on the market have nibs that are perfect for this: many of the cheaper fountain pens from Jinhao, Hongdian, Moonman/Majohn, and similar manufacturers will come with a rigid steel nib with large, smooth tipping that puts down a nice line in almost any direction it’s pushed or pulled. My go-to recommendation for this is the Jinhao 82.
Hand position and pressure
Many lefties have learned to put more pressure or hold the pen awkwardly due to fighting smear with ballpoints. Remember that with fountain pens, no heavy pressure is needed (this will help avoid digging into the paper). Also try to keep your wrist straight, not curled extremely – a straighter wrist (underwriting style) not only reduces smudge but also keeps the nib at a good angle to the paper.
In practice, lots of fountain pen enthusiasts are left-handed and write beautifully. As one lefty put it: “I’m left-handed and write almost exclusively with fountain pens. The best advice I can give is to learn to write with your wrist straight.”
This helps keep your hand clear of the wet ink. If that’s not your style, using quick-dry ink and fine nibs, as well as maybe writing a bit slower to allow drying, will solve most problems.
Finally, experiment to find what works for you. Fountain pens actually can be nicer for lefties than some gel pens, because you can get fast-dry inks that mitigate smearing. And since fountain pens glide with little force, many left-handers find them comfortable – no more pressing hard and cramping while trying to make a ballpoint write. So yes, lefties can use fountain pens with just as much ease as right-handers, with a few adjustments. Don’t let being left-handed stop you from enjoying them!
How long does a fountain pen write before needing a refill?
How long a fountain pen can write before running out of ink depends on the pen’s ink capacity, the nib width (how much ink it lays down), the adjustment of the tines, the surface tension (lubrication or “wetness”) of your ink, and your writing habits, but we can give some general expectations.
Most cartridge or converter-filled fountain pens hold around 0.5 to 1.0 ml of ink. With a typical Medium nib, 1 ml of ink can write roughly 5-10 pages of handwriting (A4/Letter size). I’ve seen users on Reddit measuring that 1ml lasted them “10 A5 pages or ~1000 words in cursive” with a fine nib. So if you’re writing a few pages a day, you might go a week or more on a fill.
I recently did a measurement using my Visconti Opera, which has a broad nib and puts down a lot of ink. By repeated weighings of the ink (to establish density / weight per mL) and then repeated weighings of the pen as I was writing, I tracked how many pages I could write: in a b5 notebook, using cursive, I wrote just over 10 full pages before running out of ink.
For me, that tracks — the larger Broad nib gets fewer words out of 1mL of ink than a medium nib (which can use the same amount of ink to fill the same number of LARGER A4 pages).
Some useful takeaways and context:
A standard international cartridge (~0.8 ml) might write ~15 A4 pages of text (front side) with a fine nib before running dry. Medium or broad nibs use ink faster, yielding more like 5-8 A4 pages, because they put more ink down.
A converter often holds a bit less than a long cartridge (sometimes 0.5–0.8 ml). So that could be, say, ~5-10 pages per fill.
Pens with larger reservoirs (piston fillers, vacuum fillers) can hold 1.2 ml up to even 2 ml in big pens. Those obviously write longer between fills – possibly 20+ pages on a single fill for a big piston pen.
The much-maligned Pilot con-40 converter holds only 0.4ml of ink, and you’ll need a syringe to actually get it “full” (using the piston to suck ink through the nib will almost always leave a large air bubble in the converter, taking up useful ink space). However, I love changing inks, so I don’t mind this too much. One day I will write a poem honoring the terrible con-40 converter, because by being bad at its job, it’s made my life more enjoyable.
Keep in mind, writing density matters. If you write large letters or leave lots of blank lines, you use less ink per page. If you write tiny and fill every corner, you use more. This is likely why people aren’t getting twice the page count with a Fine nib over a Medium.
Also, paper absorbency matters: very absorbent paper sucks more ink per word out of your fountain pen’s nib (so the pen empties faster), whereas coated paper uses less ink per stroke (because it doesn’t soak in as much).
Compared to ballpoints, fountain pens do run out of ink sooner. A ballpoint’s thick paste ink lasts a long time, whereas fountain pen liquid ink flows freely. Some newcomers to fountain pens are shocked by how quickly ink runs out: ballpoints can last years, gel pens months, but you might find yourself going through a cartridge every few days with large volumes of writing with a fountain pen. That said, for typical daily writing (say a few A4 pages of notes), you might refill every couple of weeks.
Also remember that ink evaporates slowly over time. If you ink a pen and don’t use it, it could partially evaporate over a month or two (especially if not sealed well), reducing the ink. So don’t be surprised if a pen left sitting loses some ink even without writing. As much as I love Lamy Safaris (I started on one myself!), they have notoriously bad cap seals and often dry out quickly.
To summarize a reasonable range: Expect 5-15 A4 pages of writing per fill for most fountain pens. If you write a lot each day, you might be refilling every few days. If you write occasionally, a cartridge could last weeks. It’s a good idea to carry a spare cartridge or have a bottle handy if you think you’ll run out during a long writing session.
The good news is that refilling is part of the routine and only takes a moment. Many fountain pen users actually enjoy refilling – it gives a chance to switch colors or take a short break from one pen in favor of another you’ve been itching to write with. And unlike throwaway pens, you’re just replenishing the ink, not tossing the whole pen. So while you will refill more often than replacing a ballpoint, you’ll produce very little waste for the rest of your writing life.
What’s the difference between steel nibs and gold nibs?
Fountain pen nibs are typically made of either stainless steel or gold (14k or 18k being common). The choice of nib material can affect the writing feel and cost. The simple answer you’ll hear a lot is that “steel nibs are hard and gold nibs are bouncy/soft” but this isn’t really true, even though it can be a useful shorthand sometimes.
Steel nibs
Most beginner and intermediate pens come with steel nibs. A good steel nib is cheap to produce, durable, and can be very smooth. Steel is less expensive, so it keeps the manufacturing cost of your pen down. Steel nibs also tend to have less flex – they often don’t bend much under pressure (which is usually fine; you’re not supposed to press hard anyway). That said, steel nibs can be made to be extremely flexible, as in the case of a Fountain Pen Revolution steel ultraflex nib.
They’re great for everyday writing because they’re reliable workhorses. They also often have a bit of “feedback” (a tactile feel on the paper) which some people like. One advantage: steel nibs are very tough – they rarely get sprung or misaligned unless abused. In short, steel nib = affordable and sturdy; perfect for daily use.
Gold nibs
Gold is softer and more springy as a metal, so it’ll rarely feel as rigid as a stiff steel nib. Gold nibs often give a slightly softer, cushioned feel while writing. When you write, you might feel a bit of yield or bounce, which some describe as a “buttery smooth” or more comfortable sensation.
Gold nibs can also be crafted to have more flex (though not all gold nibs are flexible – many are just soft-ish). It is said that they sometimes adapt a bit to your writing pressure, which can result in a line variation if designed for flex, but I haven’t noticed this myself.
The real reason that most vintage fountain pens used gold nibs, as I was told by a vintage pen restorer in Vienna, is that gold is so resistant to corrosion. This was important in the days when many inks (and most permanent inks) were highly acidic iron-gall inks, which would have quickly eaten through lower quality metal — even steel! — nibs. The reason a lot of these nibs have lasted 100+ years is because chemically, gold can take an unbelievable amount of abuse and still keep going.
That said, steel nibs today are usually stainless, and quite resistant to corrosion too. And modern iron gall inks are much less acidic than those that were in heavy use a hundred years ago.
The downside of gold, of course, is cost: gold nibs significantly increase a pen’s price. They also require a bit more care; because they’re softer, if you press too hard, you can misalign or spread a gold nib more easily than a steel one. Gold nibs are often touted as more “luxurious” – indeed they often feel very smooth and nuanced. For example, many find that an 18k gold nib can provide a superbly smooth and wet writing experience. However, the difference is subtle – a well-polished steel nib can be as smooth as a gold nib.
Gold can give a slight edge in smoothness or spring, but it’s not inherently “better” at writing – a lot comes down to nib design and tipping shape. In fact, many entry-level pens (Platinum Preppy, Pilot Kakuno, etc.) have excellent steel nibs that write better out-of-box than some poorly tuned gold nibs in luxury pens.
Consider gold nib pens a premium upgrade for feel and prestige, not a requirement. There’s a huge amount of overlap in writing experience. I like a few of my steel-nib pens much better than some of my gold-nib pens. So if you ever get a chance to try a gold nib, do it! You might like it. But rest assured, steel nib pens can provide an outstanding writing experience for a fraction of the cost.